Market stays local, some businesses stay small

BERKELEY, Calif. — The Berkeley Farmers’ Market put up its first tents in 1987 to promote local, organic agriculture, sustainable farming and family business. Thirty-two years later, despite growing in size and popularity, their core beliefs and mission haven’t changed; the markets’ continue to tout a family-friendly environment brought together by more than 50 small businesses. 

Kathleen Peterson and Barbara Winters, two friends who regularly shopped at the market, said they preferred purchasing groceries from small local vendors as opposed to supermarket chains, citing the freshness of the product and “[trusted] that it is directly from the farm.”

The two also said they find smaller businesses more trustworthy.

“I know it’s been grown yesterday or today, so it’s really fresh,” Peterson said.

Not only do shoppers favor small businesses, but also some small businesses prefer to stay small.

Sharon McCoy, of Bee Healthy Honey, says, “It works for us. If it gets too big, it gets out of control…There’s a pretty fine balance when you have a small business, where it’s just big enough to make decent money to support your family, or it’s too big and now it’s out of control … You either get huge or you stay small. The in-between is where you get in trouble.”

Bee Healthy Honey has been in business for 40 years. “Honey is one of those things where, in order for it to be good for you, you have to eat local honey,” McCoy said.

Blue Bottle Coffee, once an indie brand in the Bay Area, was acquired by Nestlé in 2017 and has since experienced a drop in customers in some parts of the country.

“They say that nothing is going to change, but I don’t know,” customer Christina Schnabel said. “Mass production and capitalism are inherently violent,” she added.

When her family expanded to sell produce to big corporations — including to Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods — matters became stressful, Jessica Sifuentes of Kaki Farms said.

“We actually had to reduce due to budgeting for control,” she said, adding that it was difficult to keep up because most of their produce did not grow year-round.

“Definitely better to stay smaller,” she said. 

The Farmers’ Market unifies small businesses and customers to create genuine, trusting relationships all-around.

“I’m recognizing more people that come around here every week, and some of the customers,” Winters said.

Market builds community

Tom Dawson (left) has been involved in Bariani Olive Oil for 15 years and Sebastian Bariani (right) for 28 years. (Photo by Kennedy McDermott)

Berkeley, Calif. –– When customers step into the Farmers’ Market on a Saturday morning, they embrace the bustling activity and purchase a variety of green vegetables, enjoy tangy Thai noodles or sample Italian delicacies. On the left and right are numerous stalls of bread and pastries, flowers and greenery and a mix of tantalizing aromas.

In downtown Berkeley, the Farmers’ Market on Center Street at M. L. King, Jr. Way allows people to find fresh and organic products. It works in alliance with other Berkeley farmers’ markets under the Ecology Center. Its mission is to provide sustainable and healthy products. Each shop owner or farmer arrives before the sun rises to unload its products and start the day. Locals depend on this market, which operates from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. all year long.

Customers can buy anything from organic honey-based skin products to savory breakfast crepes stuffed with bacon.

One common thread found in the market is the commitment to producing organic goods. The shops are all dedicated to delivering the top quality products for each other, their families, their culture and their customers.

Tony’s Kettle Korn and Crepe

Tony’s Kettle Korn and Crepe is a mom-and-pop business, renowned for its popped corn and variety of crepes. They operate in 10 different locations across the state.

“You give the customers what they want, “ Pete Trembois, one of the sellers whose entire family plays a role in the business, said. “You know the customer’s always right. You give them what they want. You make them happy, and they usually leave with a smile on their face.”

They are loyal to not only their customers but also to their farmers and fellow family businesses.

Trembois adds that they “use premium ingredients so we’ll have premium products.”

They do their best to support all the farmers and rely especially on Happy Boy’s farm, another family-owned farm, for their fresh produce. Through supporting each other’s businesses, these shops build deep connections of community.

The Lone Oak Ranch

Dale Simmons and JoLaVonne ViDeaune run the Lone Oak Ranch located in Reedley, California. It has run for more than four generations. One worker, Cayoa Harang, who is 19 and a student, said selling the fruit is her favorite part of the job.

“The surprise on their face when [customers] eat the fruit for the first time and stuff like that is great,” said Harang.

Kaki Farm

Nicasio Soria runs the Kaki Farm in Gridley, California, with the help of hired hands and five family members.

“We get a better relationship with our customers here in the markets than in said a grocery store,” said Jessica Sifuentes, a financial analyst at Chico Medical Hospital who helps out with the business on the side.

Family-run shops also have an environment that big grocery marts do not have. Families often come in to enjoy a weekend at farmers’ markets. Mothers come in buy groceries for the week to feed families. Young adults swing by to have a taste of the organic and fresh coffee and pastries. These regulars said they come for the quality products and the trust.

Their goal is to offer as many varieties as possible for one product.

Sifuentes said, “We have early grills, beef steak, roma, heirlooms, cherry tomatoes, sweet 100s and sun gold.”

Bariani Olive Oil

Farmers’ markets are not limited to only fruits and vegetables. Customers can enjoy cuisines and products of different cultures at the Farmers’ Market in downtown. Bariani sells all products related to olives.

Tom Dawson, an employee of the shop, said “It’s a family that moved from Italy to the U.S. in the ’90s. They started making olive oil for themselves and turned that into a business.”

From olive oil to honey to their most popular item, olive pate, this shop celebrates its Italian roots.

Why are some vendors losing business?

BERKELEY, Calif. — The number of farmers’ markets has grown exponentially in the United States, with 8,727 markets listed on the USDA’s National Farmers Market Directory. The Downtown Berkeley Farmers’ Market prides itself on its natural, organic, locally grown food. These small farmers do not condone to the harmful practices big businesses use to mass-produce products.

Nicole Sayre sells almond-based products weekly at the farmers’ market. (Photo by Miranda Aldridge)

Nicole Sayre, a book illustrator who sells Massa Organics’ almond products every Saturday, said her company creates a natural environment in its farms, complete with sheep to graze under the different trees to limit the number of weeds rather than using chemicals for that purpose.

Buying these earth-friendly food products can have a positive impact on the environment, but some vendors with good intentions aren’t getting the business they once had.

Katy Pomelov, who sells microgreens with Lifefood Gardens, has gone from selling at 11 markets to two, one in Berkeley and the other in Oakland, California.

Katy Pomelov sells microgreens, which are different types of sprouts. (Photo by Miranda Aldridge)

Pomelov explains that the profitability of her products has dropped by about half — and she’s heard the same from other vendors in other counties.

The Lifefood Garden booths used to have two people behind them, but now there is only one because there are fewer customers.

“People shop for the experience at farmers’ markets,” Pomelov said. “It’s more of a novelty thing now.”

At any market, people generally come for fresh, high quality food paired with a lively atmosphere. Whether it’s music or happy conversation and laughter, the experience of being at a farmers’ market is what draws people in.

Lisa Jobson said, “I don’t usually buy a ton here. I come for the novelty and the freshness.”

Farmers’ markets are organized as a community, where the vendors can build relationships with their regular customers.

Though friendly atmosphere brings people in, convenience is still highly valued by most.

As markets increase across America, shoppers tend to opt for the closest one rather than their usual one, so individual vendors end up losing the business they once had, Pomelov said.

But in 2016 study, the Pew Research Center found that four in 10 Americans say that some (34%) or most (6%) of the food they eat is organic. And young adults, 18 to 49, say they are more likely to consider organic purchases for health reasons.

First time or longtime? Locals head to the Berkeley Farmers’ Market

BERKELEY, Calif.一 Peaches, massages, pastries and beeswax do not have much in common, but every Saturday, they are just one part of what makes up the liveliness of the Downtown Berkeley Farmers’ Market.

The East Bay Ecology Center regulates the market to promote small and local farms with environmentally friendly practices.

The farmers’ market attracts all kinds of people, whether it be locals who visit regularly, vendors who set up shop, or professional chefs looking for the freshest ingredients for their kitchens.

Mil Apostol, a professional chef and caterer from Albany, California, has been frequenting several Berkeley farmers’ markets for years.

“It tastes better, to me.” Apostol said, “What I would rather do is have my own garden, but I can’t do that, so this is second. Not second, but best.”

The farmers’ market is home to small, local businesses, who are here looking to promote their products while being in touch with the community.

“You’re supporting local farms which also helps with your community so, it’s all about helping your fellow community,” said Jenna Dragonetti, a part-time employee of Miss Bee Haven, a Bay Area beekeeping company that sells all kinds of honey, beeswax, and pollen-based products.

They also offer bee removal services, where customers can call and have the bees placed in a new hive instead of having them exterminated.

Miss Bee Haven gathering bees during their bee removal process. (Photo courtesy of missbeehoney.com)

But not all of the small business vendors at the market were always Berkeley locals.

Trinka Hommel, a masseuse who originated from the East Coast, didn’t originally plan to move to California.

“I actually lost my job in New Jersey and I didn’t intend to come to California to stay. I actually have family and friends in several different states so I just intended to take a little road trip and ended up staying in California,” Hommel said.

In addition to community outreach, all products sold at the farmers’ market are organic and environmentally friendly.

Zero waste farms, like Frog Hollow Farm, tend to set up multiple stands at the market. The goal is to successfully sell every fruit and avoid wasting resources.

“Whatever doesn’t sell at the fruit stand gets sent to our farm kitchen,” Trinity Murchie, Frog Hollow’s farmers’ market coordinator, said.

Frog Hallow Farm sells fruit-filled pastries, jams and jellies (Photo by Natalia Ramirez).

Not only does the market have plenty of healthy foods, but customers think it is a great place to hang out and socialize.

Sylvia Spears, a weekly customer, comes to the market with a specific list, but also enjoys everything going on around the market.

“I just like getting all the fresh food and I like the selection,” Spears said. “I also like looking at the people and what they wear.”

Since 1987, the Ecology Center farmers’ markets have been a great place for locals to come together and be a part of their community while having access to fresh and organic products.

First-time customer, Yuxuan Wang said, “I love organic food. I think I’m going to come to the market more often.”

Berkeley Farmers’ Market strives to make healthy food affordable

BERKELEY, Calif. — For more than 10 years, the Berkeley Farmers’ Market has been at the forefront of a statewide effort to facilitate purchases of healthy, affordable food for those who struggle financially. Berkeley farmers’ markets are among the most affordable in the Bay Area because they accept electronic benefit transfer (EBT) cards and are participants in California’s Market Match program.

EBT cards are magnetically encoded, just like debit and credit cards. Recipients of federal welfare aid have their benefits stored in EBT cards, which can be used to buy food at stores. Some farmers’ markets, like the Berkeley Farmers’ Market, accept EBT cards.

Berkeley Farmers’ Markets began accepting EBT cards as valid forms of payment in 2008. Though they had previously accepted paper food stamps, scanning a magnetic stripe card presented a new set of challenges. To this day, most vendors at farmers’ markets have no way to scan cards and accept payments. The solution to the problem involves a token system through which money is transferred from a card holder’s EBT account to special coins worth $1 each that can be spent on certain farmers’ market products.

Thanks to the Market Match program — a program funded by a national grant designed to incentivize healthy eating — EBT card-holding shoppers are matched dollar for dollar for any amount of money they spend off of their cards up to $10. Therefore, in addition to EBT tokens, shoppers can receive up to 10 Market Match tokens to spend every time they visit a Berkeley farmers’ market.

Because  the Ecology Center, which administers Berkeley’s farmer’s markets, holds three weekly markets, card holders can receive up to $30 from the Market Match program every week without leaving Berkeley.

Paras Maharjan, a produce vendor from Riverdog Farm in Guinda, Calif., estimates that 15-20 percent of Riverdog customers pay with EBT or Market Match tokens.

“I think it’s a great program,” he said. “I think that they could maybe increase the amount of the Market Match to $15 or $20.”

There are some stipulations to the way EBT and Market Match tokens can be spent, though. EBT tokens can be used to purchase any food product except for hot prepared foods, and Market Match tokens can only be used to buy fresh produce.

Paul Stone, a Berkeley Farmers’ Market manager who has been working with the Ecology Center for more than 20 years, understands that the goal of the Market Match program is to encourage people to eat healthy, and therefore does not have many problems with ways the tokens can be spent. Though he would like to see the spending capabilities of Market Match tokens expanded to nuts and dried fruit, he is generally a proponent of both EBT and Market Match programs at farmers’ markets.

EBT and Market Match coins can be used to purchase fresh produce and herbs (Photo by Caden Thun).

“I’m sure I would make some tweaks but I understand why there are restrictions,” he said. “The whole reason we do this is to get great, healthy food to the public.”

 

 

 

Can farmers’ markets connect with low-income communities?

Organic vendor selling Early Girls tomatoes at the Berkeley Farmers’ Market on July 28, 2018. (Photo by Izzy Nesbett)

BERKELEY Calif.—The bustling farmers’ market on a Saturday morning has a sense of community and high spirits as people buy organic produce. As Arrous Lambert, a vendor for the Street Sheet newspaper said  “Berkeley people have the biggest hearts I’ve ever seen,” and encourages more lower income people to enjoy it.

People browsing through the Berkeley Farmers Market on an early Saturday morning. (Photo by Julia Hovet)

However, because all produce is required to be organic, few items are less than $5. The gentrified area surrounding the market allows for these high prices, and has begun to discourage lower income families from entering the community. With this in mind, vendors are hopeful the versions of food stamps such as, electronic benefit cards, and vouchers will gain funding to bring in more low income families. This will create a symbiotic relationship, helping them connect more with the neighborhood.

However, as Abel Estrella of Smit Ranch expressed, current grants for lower income families are spent too quickly on small amounts of produce because of high prices. Some argue that it is fruitless for them to go to the farmers market for a shopping trip, and there are other places that offer more for less.

The Ecology Center offers programs specifically for these families, such as Market Match and First 5. Despite their goals, the produce is too costly for them to receive a healthy fulfilling meal. The usual Market Match voucher is only $10, while the cheapest fruits at the market are around $5.

Similarly, the First 5 wants to help newborns to five year olds eat healthy within these early years of development, but again prices are too high. As one employee from Women, Infants, and Children (WIC) stated, “once those twenty dollars are gone, they will not come on their own”.

This has not gone unnoticed by Sen. Pat Roberts (R-Kan.), who aims to increase funding to these programs through the 2018 Senate Farm Bill. Several vendors at the market said, “Berkeley is more open to change” and people “need to dismiss the fact that the farmers market is for people with money.”

Flower vendor at the Berkeley Farmers Market delivering a positive message. (Photo by Izzy Nesbett)

Nonetheless, when observing the market there were no obvious differences or signs of hope with the introduction of the bill. Many fall into Estrella’s beliefs, who states that not much will change but does see many electronic benefit card holders for his lower priced perishable food.  

 

Farmers’ Market includes the homeless community

BERKELEY, CalifLaughter in the crowd of people buying fuzzy peaches rises on a early Saturday morning. Children accompanying their parents sit down to sing along with a guitarist. This is a Saturday at the Berkeley Farmers’ Market.  

But amidst all the chatter and laughter homeless people surround the 1947 Center St, where

the market takes place on Saturday, they are either participating in the market, sleeping on the benches in the nearby park, or walking around.

On average 972 homeless people sleep on the streets of Berkeley each night. Homelessness in Berkeley progressively got worse after the 1970’s, due to policy changes in the federal government and economic downturn.

Around 71 percent of the homeless population originally had stable jobs before becoming homeless. Homeless people gravitate toward San Francisco under the assumption that it has more benefits for them. Especially with the amount of shelters and markets provided.      

The homeless population in San Francisco publishes Street Spirit,  a newspaper that aims to shed light on struggles homeless people face in the Bay Area. Street Spirit has been around since 1997.

Arrous Lamberet, a seller of the Street Spirit Newspaper, is at Berkeley’s Farmers’ Market every Saturday. (Photo by Lesley Rodriguez)

 Arrous Lambert, a Street Spirit newspaper vendor, greets and enthusiastically encourages everyone that walks by to purchase the newspaper. Lambert started selling paper in order to financially support himself when he retired back in 1997.

Lambert has been selling papers at the farmers’ market since the paper’s inception in 1995.

“Not trying to get rich, not gonna get rich unless I win the lotto. I love talking to people,” Lambert said with a smile on his face.

Looking in from the outside, vegan oats vendor Nazim Elahi, is familiar with the homeless people that frequent the market. He is keen on helping them and thinks that market does a good job of being inclusive to people of all backgrounds.

“A lot of homeless people come and get full on free samples and some vendors donate to the homeless. As long as everyone is good the day goes well,” he said.

Deneise Jones is a homeless woman who is a mother of four. She went to high school at Berkeley High School across the street from Saturday’s event.

Her main source of income is selling papers at the farmers’ market.         

Deniese Jones, a homeless women who sells the Street Spirit Newspaper to earn a living is regular at Berkeley’s Farmers’ Market. (Photo by Lesley Rodriguez)

“I’m an African American young women striving, selling, looking for food. Out every Saturday selling homeless papers to eat and sleep,” she said. “I have a lot of spirit a mother of four…it’s not easy.”

Her faith in God also helps keep her from hitting rock bottom mentally. “I’m one of those strong survivors,” she said, her smile is wide and beaming as she continues, “ If the man above me keeps me going, if I have faith in him, I’ll be alive.”

Since Jones is out at the farmer’s market every Saturday, she is familiar with most of the other homeless people who frequent it, as well as the vendors who have become her friends.

As she glances around the market full of bustling adults and children alike, she glances back with a smile. “Everyone is a day away from being homeless,” she says. “Anything can happen. Remember that.”

 

How olive oil led to a lifelong friendship

BERKELEY, Calif.  — The Ecology Center Farmers’ Market here is not simply a source of food, beverages and more. This market has become the home to people from all around the world who explore the extent of produce and form new relationships with people within their community. With over 50 unique vendors, shoppers have been combing into new discoveries and tastes since 1987.

“I love growing stuff myself so sometimes it’s a way to taste something… that I might want to plant, which is fun,” Lisa Jobson, a local shopper, said. “I come for the novelty and the super fresh [food].”

The vendors inform curious customers on the food they love and broaden their knowledge on the process of growing fresh produce.The educational and social aspect of the farmers’ market… is so much fun, and getting feedback of your product as well,” Sebastian Bariani, who works for the family business, Bariani Olive Oil, said.

The market also brings new connections. “From my perspective as a vendor, the relationships with customers and tourists are ones you don’t get at the supermarket,” Bariani said.

“We met at San Francisco Market maybe 15 years ago… you can’t help but learn about olive oil when you’re working with him,” Tom Dawson, one of his friends, said. “To me, I love olive oil, and it’s more fascinating. I’ve been making olives, too, for the [business].” The excitement and fascination the vendors have for their products shows, too.

Tom Dawson (left) has been involved in Bariani Olive Oil for 15 years and Sebastian Bariani (right) for 28 years. (Photo by Kennedy McDermott)

“When it comes to lifestyle, I love the open air, the freedom that I find in farming,” Bariani said. “I don’t really come here for sales.” The production of olive oil is a year-long process.

“Every day of the year he’s committed to making olive oil, even though he’s only really making it three months out of the year,” Dawson said. “During those three months, he’ll work 24-hour days.”

Dawson added that Bariani’s 80-year-old mom and dad work, too.

“His dad’s driving around in a tractor spreading olive paste to use as an organic amendment,” part of the Barini farming technique, he said. The company website describes alternative manufacturing through packaging reduction.

The Berkeley market, which runs three times a week in different parts of the city year-round,  was the first in the country to ban plastics. The Bariani Olive Oil website describes their alternative manufacturing through packaging reduction, too.

“We do so many things. We look forward to the pruning of the orchard and it’s exciting… the pruning of the orchard starts in January and it goes until the end of April. Producing the olive oil is basically from October until the end of December so during that stage of the year, we’re just super excited about the olive oil making and the smells that fill the air,” Bariani said.  

“It’s just amazing.”

For more information, visit the farmers’ market website and the Bariani Olive Oil website.

What it means to be a peach farmer

BERKELEY, Calif. — As you peruse down Center Street at the Downtown Berkeley Farmers’ Market, you are met with the welcoming feeling usually found in a local coffee shop or a hometown park. Making your way through the medley of colorful canopies, it is difficult not to notice the plethora of peaches. Although this is not an inconvenience to any passerby, individual vendors are trying to come to grips with this abundance.

In 1987, The Ecology Center opened the Berkeley Farmers’ Market, which allowed the community to access organic fruits and vegetables while supporting local farms and families.

Angelina Sarver-sack, 17, who has been involved with the Berkeley Farmers’ Market for 10 years, samples peaches and helps with sales. (Photo by Althea Champion)

Being a peach farmer entails more than it lets on. The Golden State in particular is a geographical hub for growing and harvesting peaches. Out of the 33 peach-growing states, California grows more peaches than the other 32 combined. Peach season happens from May through September, according to California Dream Big.

Danny Lazzarini, who has been involved in the market for 15 years and now manages the Peach Jamboree, described how the market can be ever-changing.

“There used to be one farmers’ market a week in Oakland, and it used to be the Jack London Farmers’ Market,” she said, “and that was a really good market for us. Now that market is struggling because there is pretty much a farmers’ market every day of the week.”

Lazzarini expanded further how farmers invest in their produce.

“You have to factor in the gas. You have to factor in the stall fees. You have to factor in the staff.  You have to factor in the trucks. You have to have three times as much,” she said with a warm smile.

The livelihood of a peach farmer is extremely dependent on their growing season, with their lifestyle in constant flux based on how well their crops turn out. Peach farmers “have three months to make a livelihood for the rest of the year,” Lazzarini said, which creates a hectic daily life.

She described how farmers can have financial security one day, and overnight that security can be lost. The Berkeley Farmers’ Market provides an outlet for these farmers to sell their goods, providing security.

But despite the uncertain lifestyle and ever-changing market, these farmers would not want it any other way.

Gary Spivey, a long-time employee at a peach stand at the market, said he loves the interactions he has with the customers, and the fun he has with the business.

“I love it,” he said. “I love talking to people and handing out grapefruit. It’s a lot of fun.”

Family takes its fruit from the field to Berkeley

BERKELEY, Calif. —  “No spray, no pesticides, no chemicals,” Lisa Kashiwase proudly proclaims. Wearing a sun hat with a low brim, she deftly cuts peaches for samples — 13 varieties. Their peach farm, in Merced County, has been a family business for three generations.

Kashiwase Farms

As she talked to us, her niece and son greeted the oncoming customers, some of whom had come to taste the samples.

Her husband, Steven Kashiwase, was back home managing the farm.  Lisa waved her free hand around the stall when talking about their business.

“[We are] everywhere…Santa Cruz, San Mateo…”

She said the farm had a canning business back in the 1980s, but shakes her head when asked about selling through commercial supermarkets. “No, never a supermarket.”

Along with Kashiwase Farms, Woodleaf Farm, which has been at the Farmers’ Market for 15 years — also sells a large variety of organic peaches. Andrew Seidman and Danny Lazzarini often alternated between taking care of the stall and working back at the farm in Oroville, about an hour north of Sacramento.

Andrew Seidman from Woodleaf Farm

Seidman said it was hard work in order to transport the equipment and peaches from the farm, nearly two and a half hours away.

Woodleaf Farms chose the Berkeley markets back when “it was becoming a popular and a new way to have direct sales. It was better than selling wholesale retail price.” Seidman said he liked the market because it allowed farmers to directly connect with buyers. He noted that he had a good community with the buyers and with the other vendors. “I know almost everybody here,” he said.

In addition to the peaches making up the majority of the stall, Woodleaf Farms also had cucumbers sitting in the front. Seidman said, “It’s nice to have vegetables in addition to food. And I just really like cucumbers and I grow a lot of them. But I have too many so I bring it to the customers.”

His good connection with his customers is seen when a customer walked up and started a conversation about a wildfire several weeks back that destroyed most of Seidman’s home, equipment and about 10 percent of their trees. Seidman reassured her: “We are doing everything we can.”

Eddie Diaz from Golden Rule Organics

Golden Rule Organics has been at the Berkeley market for three years. The 8-year-old farm is a family business in Hollister, in San Benito County. It started out small, but gradually grew to become a 17-acre farm.

Eddie Diaz, one of its owners, noted how difficult it was to get a stall.

“It’s a bit hard to try to get in here, because they give first priority to the older farmers. So it’s tougher for a new farmer to get into the farmers’ market,” he said. While Diaz was content now, he said that they may expand if the opportunity arises.

Golden Rule Organics boasts a wide variety of organic fruits and vegetables.

“We have a lot…we have two types of kale…chard, collard greens, five different types of squash, like eight different types of tomatoes. We try to keep a variety in order to keep customers happy,” he said.