Market builds community on the street

The Saturday Farmers’ Market in Berkeley is one of three held weekly around town.
(Photo by Lucy Kim/Teen Observer)

BERKELEY, Calif. — It is a busy, bustling Saturday morning at the Downtown Berkeley Farmers’ Market. Trini Campbell, co-owner and operator of Riverdog Farm, is sorting tomatoes, casually chatting with customers and advising them on the best potatoes for roasting. She says that many of her customers have raised their kids on her food. After 29 years at the market, what keeps Campbell and her customers coming back?

Trini Campbell chats with longtime customers. (Photo by Lucy Kim/Teen Observer)

The Berkeley Farmers’ Market prioritizes healthy products produced through environmentally friendly practices. Campbell’s products are regulated and certified organic through the California Certified Organic Farmers, a nonprofit agricultural organization.

Established by the Ecology Center, the Berkeley Farmers’ Markets choose their vendors carefully, prohibiting products fumigated with methyl bromide or methyl iodide or grown from genetically modified seeds. When considering new vendors, the market takes available space, potential competition, seller seniority and each farm’s commitment to sustainable growing practices into account, as outlined in the Ecology Center Farmers’ Markets Policies. Campbell and other farmers use biodegradable bags instead of plastic bags; botanical controls rather than pesticides; and crop rotation to maintain soil fertility. 

Brady Leavitt, a worker at the True Grass stand, explains how the process they use to raise their animals ensures the quality of meat. 

“We use 100 percent pasture grass, and we free our animals in highly intensive grazing for a few days,” he says. The farmers working for True Grass move their cattle around to graze different areas of soil in order to prevent the grass region from becoming overgrazed.

Brady Leavitt mans the table at True Grass meat stand, which sells eggs, Wagyu beef and pork.
(Photo by Lucy Kim/Teen Observer)

Katy Pomelov, the owner of Lifefood Gardens, said that “people who come here are more health-oriented,” a determining factor in her decision to stay in this particular market. Having tried several other markets, she says the people at the Berkeley Farmers’ Market are the most open to her less-conventional grasses, sprouts and microgreens, such as wheat-grass juice and sprouted hummus. 

“Family is important to me,” says Kimi Sakashita, a regular customer.  “So buying organic, healthy food for my family is important.” 

The health interests shared by farmers and consumers create caring relationships within the community. Daria Goodson, a weekly customer, said, “I care about the farmers’ health, our biosystem, and I care about my own body. That’s why I care about buying products from an organic farm, raised with no pesticides.” She says that she wants to support local small farms and help to keep money in the community.

“Every week I run into neighbors and build connections,” says Sakashita, describing the strong bond between people who meet in the market. 

“It’s a great way to introduce children to organic foods,” Naomi Chapiro, her companion, adds. 

Both Sakashita and Chapiro enjoy visiting Swanton Berry Farm for strawberries, Blue Heron for vegetables, and Happy Boy Farm for melons.

As such, people in the Farmers’ Market look after one another. People come back to interact, communicate and support local farmers and food. Like her co-farmers, Campbell of Riverdog Farm says she loves her customers and is proud of her contribution. 

“I’ve had chefs tell me they’ve gone to other countries, other markets, but they come back to this one,” she says, “and say it’s the best in the world.”