Gabriel Farms remains true to its roots

BERKELEY, Calif. —  If you go to any two farmers’ markets, a lot looks similar. There are vendors with fresh food and smiling faces. At first glance, the Berkeley Saturday Farmers’ Market may resemble any other market, but the variety and different kinds of vendors sets them apart.

Three times a week farmers from around Northern California gather to sell a variety of products . Photo by Elliot Magenheim.

Starting in 1987, the Berkeley Saturday Farmers’ Market has evolved to provide customers with a variety of services. From massages to fresh fish and flowers, the market showcases its goods and services under the brightly colored canopies of more than 60 vendors.

Hundreds of people roamed up and down Center Street. Newspaper vendor Anthony King called out greetings to everyone coming through the main entrance. “You don’t want no boring life, you want a happy life,” he said in an interview.

That sentiment was echoed by Torrey Olson of Gabriel Farms   “I enjoy this” he said. He has been selling here for 15 years, and in all that time, he noted how much the

Torrey Olson talks about Gabriel Farms. Photo by Andrew Darell

farmers’ market had changed.

“I run my farm … not many farmers [who] run their farms anymore show up at the booths,” he said.

Not only is Gabriel Farms authentic in selling its products, but it is also different from the competition in terms of food production.

“We’re relatively small, but [we] manage space well,” Olson said. With only 15 acres Olson produces an almost unimaginable variety of produce from apples to freshly cut lavender. 

However, Olson isn’t the only vendor with a variety of products, and that is largely due to the work of the Ecology Center, which organizes and runs the farmers’ markets year-round on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays around Berkeley. The center emphasizes sustainable produce and healthy living, which is reflected in the booths present.

Booths enter the market through a rigorous application process so that only the best are represented at the market. This provides a lot of choice for the consumer, though it does mean that some small farmers like Olson finds it difficult to compete. “Farmers’ markets don’t really make money anymore,” Olson said.

Vendors often struggle to make profits at farmers’ markets due to the high volume of competition. Photo by Elliot Magenheim.

Despite all this, Olson still has passion for his job.

“I’m still here after all these years,” he said.

 

UC’s Crossroads keeps pushing boundaries

BERKELEY, Calif. — Green initiatives have been sweeping the nation, and as the first organic-certified college dining hall in the country, Crossroads continues to push the boundaries of sustainable eating here at the University of California.

Often completely full plates are thrown into the trash, Crossroads aims to solve that. Photo by Toni Rende

Bettye Bols, service manager of Crossroads, said, “We need to be careful… there aren’t enough resources in the world… [so] we all need to be a part of it.”

Bols said the staff recently launched “Weigh your Waste,” an event in which employees take plates that have barely been touched from the waste conveyer belts and put them on display for students and faculty to see. This event happens twice each semester and will continue into the new school year.

On Weigh Your Waste Night, and every other day of the week, the staff donates edible waste to homeless shelters, Bols said. The dining hall also has a compost system to take care of inedible waste, and students faculty separate their waste into large compost bins before putting them on a conveyer belt to be washed. “It’s just great for people to be aware,” Bols said.

Compost bins and different recycling bins can be seen across campus. Photo by Toni Rende

In addition to having a compost initiative, Bols said they have shifted over the past few years from being “totally organic” to being being completely locally sourced from local farms.

These are years-long initiatives; in the past, reusable containers and water bottles have been distributed from Crossroads in exchange for  dining points. The university did away with trays in the dining halls in recent years as well.

The dining hall is able to take on such ambitious goals because it is involved in the Green Initiative, which is part of  the university’s goal of zero waste by 2020.

Others projects include:

  • Waste Audits, in which trash is inspected weekly for excess waste
  • Biofuels, a program in which used cooking oil is recycled  
  • Refills not Landfills, allowing students to get a 25-cent discount for bringing reusable beverage containers
  • Chews to Reuse, a program in which students can pay $5 for a reusable food containers for use at dining halls across campus.

There is still a long way to go in the pursuit of healthy living but Crossroads staffers are key players. As Bols said, “We all need to do our part.”

Local retail spots boost for economy

Steak ‘n Egg Kitchen is a popular local spot with American University college students and residents. By Celina Ryan.

WASHINGTON, D.C.–Anne Garner sat on Steak ‘n Egg Kitchen‘s patio on a sunny Friday morning reading and eating breakfast.

The 65-year-old said the food is amazing, it’s always cooked perfectly and it’s inexpensive.

“The people, the staff, are wonderful,” Garner said.

Garner prefers independent businesses because they are “more unique” and great for the community, a fact that research supports.

In 2012, Civic Economics found local restaurants, on average, recirculate 79 percent of their revenue locally compared to chain restaurants’ 30 percent.

Independent stores help the local economy, but many in both rural and urban areas are facing competition from chain franchises and big box retailers.

Many small businesses in Washington, D.C. know they face tough competition and take steps to stay in business.

Laurie Tucker, an owner of a small health and wellness business from Greenville, Rhode Island, likes to support other small businesses.

“You have to find your niche, you give that personal piece that the big chains [can’t],” said Tucker, 44.

In Tenleytown, down Wisconsin Avenue from Steak ‘n Egg Kitchen, there’s a Panera, a Chick-fil-A, and a Starbucks. Tenleytown residents said this week that although they prefer to support small businesses, they often end up at chain stores.

Linda Jewell, 63, stood in line at Starbucks while talking about her preference for local businesses. She said local shops offer a better sense of community. So why was she at a chain?

The Tenelytown neighborhood in Northwest Washington is a mixture of local businesses and chain stores. By Celina Ryan.

“I feel sort of guilty about it,” Jewell admitted.

David Smick, 63, said he’ll pick a chain shop because it’s a known quality.

Jennifer Chapman agreed. She and others support chain franchises for the “standardized, predictable, quality.”

Chapman, 51, said she sometimes favors local spots like Busboys and Poets but other times said doesn’t pay much attention.

“I’m more indifferent to it,” Chapman said.

Back at Steak ‘n Egg Kitchen, Garner, who has lived in Washington, D.C. for 40 years, hopes local businesses can survive.

“They’re the best thing,” Garner said. “I just hope they can afford to stay in business. I hope more people can support them.”

 

Chez Panisse, bringing the farm to the table for 44 years and counting

A chef runs the first of ten sheet-cake sized trays of pasta to the kitchen. Photo by Hannah Litt

BERKELEY, Calif. — It is 10 in the morning and while in some parts of town the day is just beginning, the day at Chez Panisse in the “Gourmet Ghetto” here is in full swing. Chefs are unloading whole lambs and pigs off trucks and running them in through the back entrance; others are inside chopping red peppers and sorting fresh blackberries.

Meanwhile, the bartender is washing and organizing wine glasses and the florist is cutting and arranging wildflowers. Dozens of the 115 staffers are also are setting the tables for the day ahead of them: The fixed-price dinner in the dining room, and the lunch and dinner meals in the café. Over the last 44 years, Chez Panisse has got its morning routine down to a science.

The 500 customers a day who dine at the restaurant are meant to experience a restaurant meal that feels like at-home dining. However, in order to make it all happen, General Manager Jennifer Sherman says that the establishment needs all hand on deck to make the “wheels turn.” Employees have a passion for food and wine and are hardworking, Sherman said.

At Chez Panisse, ingredients are brought in fresh each day from farms and ranches. Here, a chef sorts fresh blackberries for use in desserts and sauces. Photo by Hannah Litt

Founder Alice Waters and friends opened the restaurant in 1971. The first four-course meal costed $6.25, including wine. Now, an average meal can cost $100, excluding wine.

When the restaurant first opened, Waters had recently come back from studying abroad in France, where, according to Sherman, she is said to have fallen in love with the daily shopping for ingredients and the long dining experiences.  A student of the French culture, Waters was inspired by French restaurateurs, who made dining at their restaurants feel like a community passionately coming together over food.

Another special aspect about Chez Panisse is its practice of only using ingredients that look the freshest at the market each day. Since freshness is key, there is a new menu daily. Sherman said, “The food is different twice a day, every day.” The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday.

Chez Panisse takes pride in serving dishes that are never frozen, never artificial and always organic. Sherman, who was a chef at Chez Panisse before becoming General Manager, said that they also use only ingredients that are in season.

Thirty years ago, Chez Panisse had a bad kitchen fire, which destroyed the wall between the kitchen and the dining room. Sherman said, “[Alice is] always someone to look at something as an opportunity rather than a hurdle.” She saw the openness from the front of the house to the back of the house as yet another way to make diners feel that they were at a dinner party in someone’s home.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chez Panisse celebrates 44 years in late August

With more than 500 customers a day and a menu that changes depending on what’s freshest, Chez Panisse proves to be on the cutting edge of farm-to-table dining. 

BERKELEY, Calif. — When entering Chez Panisse, one is instantly transported to a cozy, European atmosphere. The homey restaurant opened its doors in 1971 when Alice Waters and friends decided to bring the French ideals of fine dining to what later became the “gourmet ghetto” of Berkeley. Jennifer Sherman, general manager, spoke admirably about Waters (who was not at the interview), advocating for her mindset: “She felt the United States had lost the tradition of actually talking at dinner,” she said, when she first opened its doors years ago.

A kitchen employee rolls pasta for the restaurant at 10:30 on a recent weekday morning. There are approximately 10 sheets of pasta made daily. Photo by Ainsley Bustos

Back then, the tables covered in red- checked tablecloths and assorted flea market chairs, and for $6.75 per person, diners could order a three-course meal that included wine. Today a four-course meal at Chez Panisse costs approximately $100 per person — not including wine.

A recent menu indicated the wide variety at the restaurant: wild herb and cured ham agnolotti in yellow tomato consommé; halibut with black truffles; quail with grapes, carrots and polenta; Flavor King plum galette with fennel flower ice cream, to name a few.

Preparation is essential 

The idea behind Chez Panisse is farm-to-table, gourmet food. The menu revolves around what is fresh at the market that week. The downstairs dining has a price-fixed menu, and at the upstairs cafe, restaurant goers can order a la carte.

The freshest produce in California included peaches, cucumbers and strawberries, when the Teen Observer staff toured and talked to the staff.  Sherman described the early weeks of the month as “luxurious” because of the abundance of produce.

Pastry chefs sort through berries to find the ripest and prettiest ones to set aside for ice cream toppings, and the remaining ones will be used to create the ice cream and in sauces. Photo by Ainsley Bustos

Pastry chefs spent the morning sorting raspberries to pick the best ones to use on the ice cream.

“We spend a lot of time sorting fruit,” said one of the pastry chefs. All berries are picked and used within one or two days. There is also a room devoted to making pasta and washing lettuce.

Chez Panisse is celebrating its 44th anniversary on Aug. 28 with live music and a special dinner.

Chez Panisse: ‘A sense of things being made by hand’

 

Chez Panisse patio
The patio of Chez Panisse showcases reclaimed redwood paneling. Photo by Jesse Pagulayan

BERKELEY, Calif. — In this bustling college town is the world-famous Chez Panisse, which will celebrate its 44th anniversary later this month.

The restaurant is known for fresh, local produce and its menus hat change daily to reflect that.

Teen Observers staff got a preview of a typical day recently on a tour with General Manager Jennifer Sherman, who describes their preparation time as a constant effort to create a “dinner party” atmosphere.

Founder Alice Waters and friends opened the restaurant in 1971 after she returned from a trip to France, and said she felt that Americans had lost the art of talking with each other over dinner.

poster
The various French film posters at Chez Panisse reflect Alice Waters’ fondness for the country that inspires her culinary career. Photo by Jesse Pagulayan

In addition to her unique idea of only making dishes based on fresh produce brought in that day, it is “classic Alice” to “look at things as an opportunity instead of an obstacle,” Sherman said, noting that the reason diners can see through from the front of the house to the back of the house is because of a fire 30 years ago that destroyed the wall separating them.

Sherman said Waters’ response on seeing the damage was, “Isn’t that wonderful, I can see all the way to the kitchen!”

While waiting to write the daily menus until chefs know what’s freshest “makes for a lot of extra work, it’s really worth it,” said Sherman. From the wildflower arrangements to the grilled quail, from the posters to the reclaimed redwood porch, Sherman said, “It’s really important to Alice that when you come to a place, you have a sense of things being made by hand.”

Pastry chefs scrutinize fruits, which is used within a day or two of being picked. They looked closely and picked through raspberries, blackberries and strawberries on a recent weekday and decided what to use in desserts. The less-than-perfect pieces would be puréed or used in sauces.

headless lamb
The meat is brought in daily. Photo by Jesse Pagulayan

Whether an employee is washing lettuce or setting up the bar or making an ice cream crepe with peaches, Sherman said they look for staffers who are “hardworking and reliable with an interest in food and wine.” They also want people who have other passions and interests outside the kitchen, she added.

She said “everyone’s opinion matters” at the restaurant, where they strive to create a collaborative work environment.

One of Waters’ and the restaurant’s greatest accomplishments, Sherman said, has been the connection that developed over the years between farmers and ranchers, and between those who are growing the food and those in the kitchen turning that food into three-course meals.

“All of her passions are about food, but it’s really about connecting people,” she said.

i

Chez Panisse: Where local produce and fine dining come together

BERKELEY, Calif. — It’s 10 o’ clock on a Monday morning and a delivery man is walking with freshly butchered lambs on each shoulder, heading toward the freezer. Chefs in their crisp, white uniforms are prepping for the hectic day ahead, each with their own specific job. Some are preparing meat; others are hand-picking the best raspberries out of the multiple trays in front of them; others are making pasta and washing lettuce. Upstairs, waiters and baristas are setting up tables, polishing the silverware with a sense of urgency while they quietly chat about their weekend.

Chef Nadia picks out the best, fresh raspberries to use for the day.
One of the pastry chefs picks out the best, fresh raspberries to use for desserts. Photo by Ashley Drake

“Alice [Waters] really wanted you to feel like you were entering her home,” the general manager, Jennifer Sherman, said as she walked through the kitchen, talking about the founder. “The feeling of things being handmade is very important to her.”

It all started when Alice Waters traveled to France. She was moved by the food, the daily shopping for what was freshest, the way it tasted and the traditional way of eating and having long dinner conversations. She and friends opened Chez Panisse in 1971 and added a more informal cafe in 1981, which offers an a la carte menu. 

A central idea to Chez Panisse is using only fresh produce, preferably organic. Fruits and vegetables are picked two days before they are used and are always local and in-season. Meat is delivered fresh each morning, and pasta is made from scratch each day.

“We have a great appreciation for agriculture. Beyond bringing people together, supporting the farmers is our next greatest focus,” said Sherman.

The open door concept of Chez Panisse's dining room.
The open-kitchen concept of Chez Panisse’s dining room. Photo by Ashley Drake

Waters has been a leader in the movement to eat local and in-season and is now vice president of Slow Food International.

“The wonderful thing about Chez Panisse is that it’s so collaborative, there’s a lot of people coming together under Alice’s idea,” said Sherman.

 

Chez Panisse: more than just a restaurant

 

Employees always hand-pick the best produce to ensure that it is fresh. Photo by Makena Huey
Pastry chefs begin sorting fresh fruit to use in desserts and sauces hours before the restaurant opens.  Photo by Makena Huey

This month marks the 44th anniversary of Chez Panisse. General Manager Jennifer Sherman recently gave a behind-the-scenes tour of the restaurant to the staff of the Teen Observer.

When creating Chez Panisse in 1971, Alice Waters was inspired to have her customers feel as if they were going to a “dinner party” where “generosity and attention to detail” would radiate.

Waters has a strong “passion for food and bringing people together,” Sherman said.

And for almost 44 years, her goal has been to provide people with a “Slow Food” experience, which emphasizes the importance of fresh, organic food as well as bonding with friends and family.

“It’s really important to Alice that when you come in, you have a feeling that everything is made by hand,” she said. This not only includes the food, but also the interior and exterior features of the building that make Chez Panisse so much more than just a restaurant.  “All of her passions are about food, but it’s really about connecting people,” she said.

The restaurant, which serves about 500 people per day, was the first of its kind to have a visible fireplace and an open-floor plan, so diners can see the chefs doing what they love from their tables. This concept is ideal for small, intimate groups of people. Sherman said one table seats 10 but they recommend that no more than eight eat together.

The menu changes daily based on what is fresh and looks best at the markets, and the restaurant maintains a strong relationship with many local farmers to ensure that only the best and most seasonal foods are served. “We go look at the things and decide what’s really best,” Sherman said.

“We would not be who we are without farmers who are beyond organic,” Sherman said. When Waters first opened the restaurant in 1971, a three-course dinner was $6.25 including a bottle of wine. Today, the average price for a four-course meal is $100, not including wine.

Waters decided to take out the wall separating the two areas after a kitchen fire 30 years ago.
Photo by Makena Huey

The staff is a very tight-knit community, which is unique considering there are over 115 employees. Sherman describes the restaurant as a collaborative work environment where “everybody’s opinion matters.” When hiring people, she said she looks for individuals who are hard-working, reliable, interesting, diverse, skilled and most importantly, passionate. This passion for the art of cooking and connecting people is what makes Chez Panisse have such a warm and friendly atmosphere.

vChez Panisse features a Craftsman style exterior, which gives it an inviting feeling, almost as is you are going over to a friend's house for dinner.  Photo by Makena Huey
Chez Panisse features a Craftsman style exterior with reclaimed redwood, which gives it an inviting feeling, almost as is you are going over to a friend’s house for dinner.
Photo by Makena Huey

Not only does this restaurant provide a five star dining experience, but it also features live music several times per year including jazz bands, accordion and piano players, as well as a French group called the Baguette Quartet. Up-and-coming cookbook authors often have their book signings at their cafe, while locals and tourists alike come together to celebrate special occasions.

On Aug. 28, the restaurant will be celebrate its 44th anniversary. There will be live music and delicious food fresh from the farmer’s hands. For more information,  click here.

 

Steak ’n Egg: an amiable atmosphere

Clauton Kum talks about his experience at the diner. Photo by Meagan Pruitt

WASHINGTON — Osman and Joe’s Steak ’n Egg Kitchen, a 24-hour staple of the Tenleytown neighborhood, is where Clauton Kum has spent the last three years learning to cook.

“It’s fun to have a staff that works with you,” Kum said. “We goof around with each other all the time, making jokes. It makes the night go faster.”

The 24-hour restaurant features outdoor seating, which looks out on Wisconsin Avenue, and is surrounded with a white picket fence. Eight white tables that can seat about 50 people fill this patio, and if this and the 12 seats at the counter inside aren’t enough, employees make more, said Kum.

The rising sophomore at the University of Maryland came to the United States in 2005 from Cameroon seeking a better education. Osman Barrie and Joe Vamboi, the store’s owners, who befriended Kum’s family, gave him the opportunity to work for their business when he was a sophomore in high school in Silver Spring, Maryland. Through the job, he learned how to cook, working on weekends during the school year and now more hours in the summer months .

Steak 'n Eggs exterior
The patio outside of the diner provides shaded seating. Photo by Meagan Pruitt

Staffers often juggle more than one task— cooking, working the cash register, waiting tables. And Kum’s favorite part of the work is interacting with customers, especially with local college students who frequently come after a night on the town.

“This is the place at the late hour when you’re trying to sober up,” he said. The college crowd energizes the place, adding an entertaining atmosphere filled with spontaneous rap performances and comedic conversations, he added.

The counter, reminiscent of a classic diner, is just inches away from the kitchen, where the staff labors over hot grills. Kum and his fellow staff members work fast; on a recent weekday morning there was a steady stream of people both coming and going.

Kum and other employees are always chatting with customers, laughing with them and trying to make them feel comfortable.

Customers at Steak 'n Eggs
The diner fills up in the morning for breakfast. Photo by Meagan Pruitt

At 10:30 a.m. on a recent weekday, the Jost family, visiting from Indianapolis, arrived after reading a review on Yelp, and ordered biscuits and country fried steak with gravy. Chris Jost described his meal as “great,” while his wife, Candace, said her French toast was “delicious” and daughter Elizabeth pronounced her funnel cakes “the bomb.”

Kum served their table, then dashed back to the kitchen to keep cooking. One of his favorite dishes — and a customer favorite — is the Tennessee Scramble, which features ham, bacon and sausage, and is served with biscuits and gravy.  He said, “the omelettes are a little of a struggle,” but in his time behind the counter, he has now mastered the egg-and-cheese sandwich and pancakes.

Build Pizzeria recovers from fire

BERKELEY, Calif. — BUILD Pizzeria at the corner of Shattuck and Bancroft streets has been a well-received hot spot since opening 15 months ago. The restaurant that offers a sophisticated, modern twist on  pizza was forced to shut down for a week after a small kitchen fire broke out on July 26.

General Manager Jonaten Martinez said no one was hurt, but all the appliances had to be replaced. “The fire broke out about 1:30 a.m.on Saturday night and was a result of procedures being improperly followed,” he said, informing us that an employee left a plastic rack on the stove that then caught on fire.

One of the managers was in the office doing paperwork when suddenly the sprinkler system went off. “We later saw him on the cameras running out from the office through all the smoke that had filled the back,” said Martinez. The pizzeria was cleared by the health department and reopened on Friday, Aug. 1. “There was a really great crowd for the re-opening,” said Martinez.

BUILD offers specialty pizzas from the menu but customers can also build their own: They can choose from among two types of crust, six sauces, seven cheeses and 42 toppings.

 

Photo by Jennifer Moffat
Photo by Jennifer Moffat

The owners imported wood-fired pizza ovens from Italy that reach 750 degrees and cook the pizzas in three to five minutes. In addition, they offer soups and pastas — which can also be built or customized.

The menu was formulated by the original head chef, who is no longer with the company, and owners Lisa Holt and David Shapiro, who also designed the interior. Lisa Holt’s background in five star hotel interior design is apparent once walking through the doors. Martinez said, “We try to bring Berkeley into the restaurant,” which features wall-size prints of black-and-white photos from People’s Park in the 1960s.

Sous chef Jonathan Popenuck reaches out to local vendors himself to try and acquire the freshest vegetables possible. “The owners told us that the priority is always freshness, never cost,” he said. BUILD continues to experiment with different ways to draw in the crowds, including offering “Cal Night” where students with IDs can access a special menu at discounted prices. The restaurant also hosts fundraisers for the university. A great deal of growth and success is sure to come for this Berkeley gem.

Other stories about BUILD:

• Proud of location

Reopening

Options

 Upscale efforts

More seasonal fare

A look at the high-end ovens