Chez Panisse, bringing the farm to the table for 44 years and counting

A chef runs the first of ten sheet-cake sized trays of pasta to the kitchen. Photo by Hannah Litt

BERKELEY, Calif. — It is 10 in the morning and while in some parts of town the day is just beginning, the day at Chez Panisse in the “Gourmet Ghetto” here is in full swing. Chefs are unloading whole lambs and pigs off trucks and running them in through the back entrance; others are inside chopping red peppers and sorting fresh blackberries.

Meanwhile, the bartender is washing and organizing wine glasses and the florist is cutting and arranging wildflowers. Dozens of the 115 staffers are also are setting the tables for the day ahead of them: The fixed-price dinner in the dining room, and the lunch and dinner meals in the café. Over the last 44 years, Chez Panisse has got its morning routine down to a science.

The 500 customers a day who dine at the restaurant are meant to experience a restaurant meal that feels like at-home dining. However, in order to make it all happen, General Manager Jennifer Sherman says that the establishment needs all hand on deck to make the “wheels turn.” Employees have a passion for food and wine and are hardworking, Sherman said.

At Chez Panisse, ingredients are brought in fresh each day from farms and ranches. Here, a chef sorts fresh blackberries for use in desserts and sauces. Photo by Hannah Litt

Founder Alice Waters and friends opened the restaurant in 1971. The first four-course meal costed $6.25, including wine. Now, an average meal can cost $100, excluding wine.

When the restaurant first opened, Waters had recently come back from studying abroad in France, where, according to Sherman, she is said to have fallen in love with the daily shopping for ingredients and the long dining experiences.  A student of the French culture, Waters was inspired by French restaurateurs, who made dining at their restaurants feel like a community passionately coming together over food.

Another special aspect about Chez Panisse is its practice of only using ingredients that look the freshest at the market each day. Since freshness is key, there is a new menu daily. Sherman said, “The food is different twice a day, every day.” The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday.

Chez Panisse takes pride in serving dishes that are never frozen, never artificial and always organic. Sherman, who was a chef at Chez Panisse before becoming General Manager, said that they also use only ingredients that are in season.

Thirty years ago, Chez Panisse had a bad kitchen fire, which destroyed the wall between the kitchen and the dining room. Sherman said, “[Alice is] always someone to look at something as an opportunity rather than a hurdle.” She saw the openness from the front of the house to the back of the house as yet another way to make diners feel that they were at a dinner party in someone’s home.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chez Panisse celebrates 44 years in late August

With more than 500 customers a day and a menu that changes depending on what’s freshest, Chez Panisse proves to be on the cutting edge of farm-to-table dining. 

BERKELEY, Calif. — When entering Chez Panisse, one is instantly transported to a cozy, European atmosphere. The homey restaurant opened its doors in 1971 when Alice Waters and friends decided to bring the French ideals of fine dining to what later became the “gourmet ghetto” of Berkeley. Jennifer Sherman, general manager, spoke admirably about Waters (who was not at the interview), advocating for her mindset: “She felt the United States had lost the tradition of actually talking at dinner,” she said, when she first opened its doors years ago.

A kitchen employee rolls pasta for the restaurant at 10:30 on a recent weekday morning. There are approximately 10 sheets of pasta made daily. Photo by Ainsley Bustos

Back then, the tables covered in red- checked tablecloths and assorted flea market chairs, and for $6.75 per person, diners could order a three-course meal that included wine. Today a four-course meal at Chez Panisse costs approximately $100 per person — not including wine.

A recent menu indicated the wide variety at the restaurant: wild herb and cured ham agnolotti in yellow tomato consommé; halibut with black truffles; quail with grapes, carrots and polenta; Flavor King plum galette with fennel flower ice cream, to name a few.

Preparation is essential 

The idea behind Chez Panisse is farm-to-table, gourmet food. The menu revolves around what is fresh at the market that week. The downstairs dining has a price-fixed menu, and at the upstairs cafe, restaurant goers can order a la carte.

The freshest produce in California included peaches, cucumbers and strawberries, when the Teen Observer staff toured and talked to the staff.  Sherman described the early weeks of the month as “luxurious” because of the abundance of produce.

Pastry chefs sort through berries to find the ripest and prettiest ones to set aside for ice cream toppings, and the remaining ones will be used to create the ice cream and in sauces. Photo by Ainsley Bustos

Pastry chefs spent the morning sorting raspberries to pick the best ones to use on the ice cream.

“We spend a lot of time sorting fruit,” said one of the pastry chefs. All berries are picked and used within one or two days. There is also a room devoted to making pasta and washing lettuce.

Chez Panisse is celebrating its 44th anniversary on Aug. 28 with live music and a special dinner.

Chez Panisse: ‘A sense of things being made by hand’

 

Chez Panisse patio
The patio of Chez Panisse showcases reclaimed redwood paneling. Photo by Jesse Pagulayan

BERKELEY, Calif. — In this bustling college town is the world-famous Chez Panisse, which will celebrate its 44th anniversary later this month.

The restaurant is known for fresh, local produce and its menus hat change daily to reflect that.

Teen Observers staff got a preview of a typical day recently on a tour with General Manager Jennifer Sherman, who describes their preparation time as a constant effort to create a “dinner party” atmosphere.

Founder Alice Waters and friends opened the restaurant in 1971 after she returned from a trip to France, and said she felt that Americans had lost the art of talking with each other over dinner.

poster
The various French film posters at Chez Panisse reflect Alice Waters’ fondness for the country that inspires her culinary career. Photo by Jesse Pagulayan

In addition to her unique idea of only making dishes based on fresh produce brought in that day, it is “classic Alice” to “look at things as an opportunity instead of an obstacle,” Sherman said, noting that the reason diners can see through from the front of the house to the back of the house is because of a fire 30 years ago that destroyed the wall separating them.

Sherman said Waters’ response on seeing the damage was, “Isn’t that wonderful, I can see all the way to the kitchen!”

While waiting to write the daily menus until chefs know what’s freshest “makes for a lot of extra work, it’s really worth it,” said Sherman. From the wildflower arrangements to the grilled quail, from the posters to the reclaimed redwood porch, Sherman said, “It’s really important to Alice that when you come to a place, you have a sense of things being made by hand.”

Pastry chefs scrutinize fruits, which is used within a day or two of being picked. They looked closely and picked through raspberries, blackberries and strawberries on a recent weekday and decided what to use in desserts. The less-than-perfect pieces would be puréed or used in sauces.

headless lamb
The meat is brought in daily. Photo by Jesse Pagulayan

Whether an employee is washing lettuce or setting up the bar or making an ice cream crepe with peaches, Sherman said they look for staffers who are “hardworking and reliable with an interest in food and wine.” They also want people who have other passions and interests outside the kitchen, she added.

She said “everyone’s opinion matters” at the restaurant, where they strive to create a collaborative work environment.

One of Waters’ and the restaurant’s greatest accomplishments, Sherman said, has been the connection that developed over the years between farmers and ranchers, and between those who are growing the food and those in the kitchen turning that food into three-course meals.

“All of her passions are about food, but it’s really about connecting people,” she said.

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Chez Panisse: Where local produce and fine dining come together

BERKELEY, Calif. — It’s 10 o’ clock on a Monday morning and a delivery man is walking with freshly butchered lambs on each shoulder, heading toward the freezer. Chefs in their crisp, white uniforms are prepping for the hectic day ahead, each with their own specific job. Some are preparing meat; others are hand-picking the best raspberries out of the multiple trays in front of them; others are making pasta and washing lettuce. Upstairs, waiters and baristas are setting up tables, polishing the silverware with a sense of urgency while they quietly chat about their weekend.

Chef Nadia picks out the best, fresh raspberries to use for the day.
One of the pastry chefs picks out the best, fresh raspberries to use for desserts. Photo by Ashley Drake

“Alice [Waters] really wanted you to feel like you were entering her home,” the general manager, Jennifer Sherman, said as she walked through the kitchen, talking about the founder. “The feeling of things being handmade is very important to her.”

It all started when Alice Waters traveled to France. She was moved by the food, the daily shopping for what was freshest, the way it tasted and the traditional way of eating and having long dinner conversations. She and friends opened Chez Panisse in 1971 and added a more informal cafe in 1981, which offers an a la carte menu. 

A central idea to Chez Panisse is using only fresh produce, preferably organic. Fruits and vegetables are picked two days before they are used and are always local and in-season. Meat is delivered fresh each morning, and pasta is made from scratch each day.

“We have a great appreciation for agriculture. Beyond bringing people together, supporting the farmers is our next greatest focus,” said Sherman.

The open door concept of Chez Panisse's dining room.
The open-kitchen concept of Chez Panisse’s dining room. Photo by Ashley Drake

Waters has been a leader in the movement to eat local and in-season and is now vice president of Slow Food International.

“The wonderful thing about Chez Panisse is that it’s so collaborative, there’s a lot of people coming together under Alice’s idea,” said Sherman.

 

Chez Panisse: Front runner of slow-food movement

Sweet red, orange, and yellow peppers, picked fresh only a few days before. They sit in the kitchen, ready to be used in a meal.
Fresh bell peppers sit near the pizza oven
in the cafe upstairs. Photo by Jessi Carman

BERKELEY, Calif. — In 1971, after a trip to France, Alice Waters was enamored with the taste of good food, shopped for each day and prepared with what looked best at the market. She and a group of friends started a restaurant here not far from the University of California’s campus.

In 2015, as the owner of Chez Panisse, she and her restaurant remain the standard-bearers for eating local food in season.

The old house turned comfortable dinner destination is open six days a week nearly every week of the year, and follows a unique menu— one that changes daily in both the cafe and the dining room. 

Hilde Coucke was visiting the restaurant from Belgium as a member of Slow Food International to see for herself the restaurant that has moved many to embrace and aim for connecting over food, supporting small farms and eating with their health in mind.

Coucke is a manager of an organic farm, “but farmers don’t make a good living,” she says. She said Europe has a better relationship with food than the United States, but that slow food is still a necessary organization, as Europe is at a crossroads in which fast foods and slow foods are battling for dominance. Chez Panisse, like many European restaurants, buys vegetables, fruits and meats from local organic farmers, only purchasing what’s ripe and never freezing or preserving out-of-season foods to use as a constant staple of the menu.

From this healthy relationship with nature, the restaurant has developed a great appreciation for agriculture. General Manager Jennifer Sherman said, “We would absolutely not be who and where we are with out the farmers.” She added that the restaurant’s biggest achievements are supporting small farms and bringing people together. “All of her passions are about food, but it’s really about connecting people,” Sherman said.

Slow Food International, started in 1986 in Italy by Carlo Petrini after a campaign against the opening of a new McDonald’s. Alice Waters is its vice president. The organization now has an American chapter known as Slow Food USA, founded by Richard McCarthy in 2000, and a youth outreach program that teaches young people about the slow food message.

The Slow Food movement is a revolution which aims to support farming and agriculture and provide clean eating to people everywhere. It reminds the public that traditionally meals were meant as a time to come around the table to talk, joke and be with one another. Enriching food culture is a mission that is often combated by traditional fast food and the growing sentiment that food is merely to be eaten, not always enjoyed and truly tasted.

In the United States following the slow food philosophy is not only difficult, but expensive.  In 1971 the cost of a three- course meal, including a carafe of wine, was $6.25 at Chez Panisse. Today the number is upward of $100 per person for a four-course meal – excluding wine. “It’s just very expensive,” says Sherman.

Chez Panisse does its best to provide employees with livable pay, despite the high cost of operation and the high cost of living in Northern California. Sherman said the restaurant set an internal minimum wage of $15, higher than the national average of $7.75. Even then, it’s still difficult to support employees, and the restaurant essentially runs as a nonprofit, she said.  They also offer health benefits, paid vacation leave and sick days.

Numerous alumni have left and started restaurants of their own that follow the same ethical and moral principles—supporting slow food, farmers and employees. Coucke described an ideal of good eating that permeates European culture and continues to spread worldwide.

Chez Panisse: French style brought to America

BERKELEY, Calif. — The American restaurant with a very French style of dining, Chez Panisse, founded by Alice Waters and friends, will celebrate its 44th year Aug. 28.

A view of the Chez Panisse kitchen with a chef preparing for lunch
A view of the Chez Panisse kitchen with a chef preparing for lunch – photo by Christian Ormson

Recently, the Teen Observer staff did a walk-through of the early-morning set up to see how the staff approaches an average day.

The earth-tone cedar shingles, as well as the over-hanging tree branches on the decorative porch fencing is the first clue that customers might be walking into a different kind of establishment.

Inside, in the first-floor dining room, dim lights, handmade architectural details and even the wildflower flower arrangements add to a seasonal feel. General Manager Jennifer Sherman said these details should “point towards what you’re about to eat.”

The restaurant and the upstairs and less-formal cafe change their menus daily and buy from local farmers who don’t use pesticides or chemicals.

The dining room serves a four-course meal, and those in the cafe can order a la carte.

“The wonderful thing about Chez Panisse is that it’s so collaborative, there’s a lot of people coming together under Alice’s idea,” said Sherman.

It’s a busy hustle when the cooks arrive in the morning at 6:30 a.m to prepare for the lunch crowd. These chefs have a specific area of expertise in cooking, with lots of variation.

While someone may be preparing sheets of pasta, another will be sorting out the fresh, best-looking raspberries from the not-so-good ones, which might go into a sauce. There will be a chef setting up cheese blocks while the bartender prepares the bar with glassware.

Chez Panisse has an open design concept. After a fire destroyed the wall separating the kitchen from the dining area 30 years ago, Waters saw that as an opportunity to open the space so restaurant-goers could see from the front of the house to the back, an open-concept that has become widespread.