BUILD: ‘proud of location’

Sous-chef Jonathan Popenuck explains how BUILD uses dry oak in their wood-fire oven. Photo by Tisien Palacio
Sous-chef Jonathan Popenuck explains how BUILD uses dry oak in their wood-fire oven. Photo by Tisien Palacio

BERKELEY, Calif. — On Aug. 1, BUILD Pizzeria reopened after being closed for a week because of a small kitchen fire. An employee left a plastic dish rack on the stove, which sparked the fire, said General Manager Jonatan Martinez, though there were no injuries and the only person in the building was the manager on duty. Martinez said they “felt the impact of the fire” on opening night — they now have new appliances, but also had to make sure all the suppliers were on board with the reopening — but the customers have been returning.

BUILD Pizzeria was designed by the owners, Lisa Holt and David Shapiro, hotel designers from Napa, Calif. Martinez said they wanted people to see how their pizzas were being made, which led to the design of an open-air kitchen and wide counter spaces. They chose Berkeley because of the city’s storied history with food, including Alice Waters’ famous Chez Panisse restaurant and the slow-food movement. Martinez said they wanted a “more modern theme for a pizzeria,” but also, “It’s about being proud of where our location is.” Buying local and seasonal food continues to be a hallmark of the restaurant.

The concept is to deliver gourmet food at an average price, offering customize-able pizzas and other specialty Italian dishes. Customers can choose from two types of crusts, seven types of cheeses, six types of sauces and 42 types of toppings. The most popular ingredient is mushrooms, and the top-selling specialty pizza is margarita, said sous chef Jonathan Popenuck.

Even after the fire, BUILD remains strong. Martinez said, “Our motto is ‘find your inner pizza,’ but you really find your inner self.”